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Entries tagged with 'New York'

All American Drive-In

Editor's note: We couldn't think of a better burger to report on this Thursday, a day before the 4th of July, than the one at All American Drive-In in Massapequa, New York. Hum a Sousa march to yourself while you read. —The Mgmt.

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All American Drive-In

4286 Merrick Road, Massapequa NY 11758 (map); allamericanhamburger.us
The Short Order: All American's flavor will be familiar to anyone who has eaten under the Golden Arches, but it's the freshness of the product that sets it apart. Though the Double Double (two patties, two slices of cheese) provides the perfect beef-to-bun ratio, the cheeseburger is a study in simplicity, with a soft, fresh pillowy bun that leaves a dusting of flour on fingers. If getting a quarter-pounder, be sure to get cheese on it
Want Fries with That? Yes. They're crisp and golden and actually taste of potatoes ($1.15). The onion ringsare skippable
Price: Hamburger, $1.05; cheeseburger, $1.25; QP, $2.15; QPC, $2.55; Double Header, $2; Double Double, $2.40

Despite the fact that All American Drive-In has but one location, the burgers they serve will be instantly familiar to millions, perhaps even billions of people.

You see the three burgers on offer at this timeless little drive-in in exotic Massapequa, New York, are virtually identical to McDonald's early menu. Before Big Macs and breakfast burritos, before other chains started offering to do things your way, All American was churning out burgers "their way"—pickles, ketchup, finely diced onions—at a dizzying rate to the swarms of hungry suburbanites that flock here.

You want choice? OK, you can order your burgers with or without cheese.

I often wonder if one can be nostalgic for an era that one never lived in. Is there such a word in the English language? I certainly get the feeling of nostalgia when I dine at All American. The diminutive portion sizes, the immediacy of service, the taste of the food itself all evoke in me a bygone era, unfettered by the notions of super-sizing and conversely by any need to pay lip service to a balanced diet. There is nothing remotely green on any of the burgers here, the closest vegetable aside from the onion would be, using the Ronald Reagan nutritional standard, the ketchup that is de riguer.

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All American Drive-In; Massapequa, New York

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Took a field trip here this afternoon for lunch with Nick Solares (aka "The Beef Aficionado"). Reportage to come ...

All American Drive-In

4286 Merrick Road, Massapequa NY 11758 (map); allamericanhamburger.us

Royale: Alphabet City, Manhattan

Or, 'But What Do They Call it in France?

Royale with Cheese - Retouched

Hype never moves me the way it should. In fact, it turns me off. I refused to see Pulp Fiction for three years after its initial release for that very reason, and even then wasn't that impressed. But when multiple trusty sources of mine collude to recommend a burger, I feel I owe it to myself to at least give it a try.

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L.A.'s The Counter Coming to East Coast: West Hartford, Conn., by End of May

Westchester County Location Also in the Works

Dear AHT, Letters From Our Readers

Subject: Counter Burger Coming to West Hartford CT

Just talked to the northeast franchisee, and he said, permits standing, it will open in Blue Back Square in West Hartford, Connecticut, at the end of May. It is the first East Coast operation to be open. Just thought you might be interested.

—Neil R.

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Burger Link Roundup

News
Burgerama!Attack of the Clone: A Utah burger joint is in the doghouse with In-N-Out: "The company in question is Chadder's, an American Fo1rk burger restaurant that opened in May with a menu that is so similar to In-N-Out that some customers have contacted the Orange County chain to inquire if the two brands were related, according to the suit." [via FoAHT Karen N.]

Burgerama!Rising burger prices? From a link sent to us by prolific tipster and FoAHT Fred S.:

It must be expected that basic food prices must double in the next five to ten years. This would take them back to half their historic average. It must also be expected that some key foodstuffs will become temporarily unavailable. Both events are easy to foresee, and both will be 'huge surprises.' Consider the staple food of fat northern hemisphere dwellers—the humble hamburger; the bun is grain and the meat is simply an inefficient method of grain conversion on legs. Our forecasts of both much higher food prices and shortages will lead to a significant price increase in the hamburger.

Fred says, "You know what that means: Wolf down as many burgers as you can while you can still afford it!"

Burgerama!Shanghai surprise: The blog Shanghaist is putting on a Fourth of July party (on July 1—because it's a Sunday) that will feature a "Best Burger in Shanghai" competition in which attendees can taste and vote on the entrants. Related: The Best Burger in Shanghai

Burgerama!Double oink: At the 2007 World Pork Expo, Ray Lampe (aka Dr. BBQ) created a ginormous double pork burger. It was 70.5 pounds and featured a center bun—you know, like a Big Mac. [via FoAHT Laren]


Reviews
Burgerama!Robb Walsh hits Blake's BBQ and Burgers in Houston: "The third hamburger I got at Blake's BBQ and Burgers on Jeanetta was just about perfect. When I bit into it, the juicy meat, melted American cheese and white bread of the bun all melded together in my mouth in a delightfully sticky mass. It was sort of like a grilled cheese sandwich with a hamburger in the middle." 2916 Jeanetta
Houston TX 77063; 713-266-6860


Openings
Burgerama!On Molokai ("The most Hawaiian island"), a burger joint with the right idea will become the island's first drive-through restaurant: "The menu will have shakes, soda, french fries and burgers (of course). [Co-owner Rod] Felt said the restaurant’s burgers are going to be made from 'premium stuff, the finest you can get.' It will also be fresh, 'we won’t even have a freezer,' he said. Local growers are providing produce."

Slated to open in fall in downtown Molokai.

Burgerama!In Brooklyn, something that sounds insanely awesome:

The 25-meter pool, carved into an old barge, will lower its gangways between Piers 4 and 5 near Joralemon Street for a 10-week trial run this summer.

Sunbathers can also soak up the rays on a one-acre makeshift beach, complete with rentable umbrellas, beach chairs and hamburger and hot dog stands.

Along with Water Taxi Beach, this would make two man-made beaches on the East River. Crazy.

Manhattan's Best Beef

Men's Vogue has a great piece on the man behind some of Manhattan's best burgers:

If you haven't heard of [Pat] LaFrieda, it may be because you don't own one of Manhattan's better restaurants. He's the third Pat LaFrieda to work at LaFrieda Wholesale Meats (his father, Pat LaFrieda, Jr., still runs the day shift), the supplier for Babbo, Momofuku, BLT Steak, A Voce, the Union Square Cafe, and another 200 establishments. He also grinds the meat for the city's most celebrated hamburgers: Stand, BLT Burger, Shake Shack, and the Spotted Pig all use custom LaFrieda blends that start with chuck and then might (or might not) include sirloin, brisket, boneless short rib, shank, skirt, flat iron, and even hanger. (Brgr's hamburger is ground in Montana.) Each blend is a closely guarded secret, tailored to the techniques and demands of a particular restaurant: Will it be a thin or thick patty? Griddle or grill? Medium or high heat?

After the jump, a breakdown of different burger joints' recipes.

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Best Burger Quote Ever

"This burger is a wonder. It's thick, it's perfectly cooked, juicy and covered in cheese and bacon. If eating a burger is a sin, this burger is like going to Vegas with a hooker who you kill, stuff in your trunk, and push off into a canyon."—The Amateur Gourmet

Seamus Mullen Is on Our S**t List

He may have gotten two stars from the New York Times for his cooking, but he gets a big goose egg from AHT for this attack, which appeared on Restaurant Girl:

What trend do you wish would die already?
Sliders.

Shacklash in the 'New York Post'

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Steve Cuozzo's got some things to say about the Shake Shack in the New York Post, a handful of which I am going to respond to:

When the griddle is clicking on all cylinders, the Shackburger attains a modicum of flavor and a reasonable compromise between tender and chewy.

FALSE!When the griddle, grillmen and grillwomen, cashiers, and expediters are all firing on all cylinders, the Shack attains more than a modicum of flavor—it is downright delicious. The burger is moist (if not gushing with juices) with a crunchy, crusty, salty exterior and a great bun-to-meat ratio. Unfortunately, when you go at peak hours, it's a rare occurrence that all the meatslinging machinery's in tune. Burgers too often come out overcooked and lukewarm.

It’s not like the food is remotely good enough to justify a standard, one- to two-hour wait. For me that day, it was one hour, 15 minutes - 45 minutes on the ordering line and 30 minutes more at the pickup station.

TRUE! See the photo above, people. If you wait in a line any longer than that indicated, you're an idiot. First, it's questionable that any burger is worth an hour-plus wait in line. Second, if the line is that long, you're probably going to get a subpar Shackburger.

The beef is ground at Meyer’s Eleven Madison Park across the street - gilt by association with one of the city’s finest restaurants. Cooked only one way - medium, which too often means medium-well - it’s topped with cheap American cheese, a mayo-based sauce, lettuce and insipid tomato slices inside a lightly-grilled bun.

TRUE and FALSE!
True: When it's cooked to medium, it's a great burger—but Cuozzo's right, at peak hours, the things get overcooked.

False: He is wrong, however, about the cheese; American "cheese" is the perfect cheesestuff for a burger of this type.

True: The tomato slices blow, but that's true of tomato slices at most burger joints. I almost never order mine with tomatoes. I think the standard Shackburger is vastly inferior to a standard cheeseburger with pickles and onions.

Left Unsaid: Cuozzo should have added that the Shack sauce is a tired old mayo-ketchup-based concoction that adds almost nothing to the burger.

And, yes, I know there's another article in the Post detailing the city's best burgers. I'll get to that in a bit ...

Photograph from Mikebrittain on Flickr

ANOTHER Goodburger Opening in Midtown

AHT reader and newcomer to the foodblogging scene "Beef Aficionado" Nick tips us to the fact that yet another Goodburger is opening in Midtown, this one at 45th Street between Fifth and Sixth Avenue. (Nick also hipped us to the impending opening of the Union Square Goodburger late last month.)

This brings the rapidly expanding Manhattan minichain to four stores since the first one opened in October 2005. Is it expanding too fast, though? Says Nick, "Can they possibly maintain quality as they expand? We shall see."

We shall see, indeed.

Five Guys Already Open in NYC

Five Guys, College Point QNSFive Guys
Address: 132-01 14th Avenue, Queens NY 11356 [map]
Phone: 718-767-6500; fax: 718-767-6502
Getting there: LIRR to Flushing Main Street, Q20B bus to 14th Ave. and 130th Street. But really, if you don't live in College Point or have a car, it's a pain.
The short order: D.C. chain's first store in NYC opens in Queens, makes crunchy-crusted burgers that rival Shake Shack's.
Want fries with that? Yes! A resounding yes. As longtime AHT readers know, I'm not the biggest fry guy, but these are definitely worth getting. Freshly cut and twice-fried, they're crisp with a nice, mealy interior. Don't bother getting the "regular" size. Five Guys's M.O. is to put your burger and cup of fries in the bag and then throw in a heaping handful of extra fries on top. The "Cajun" spiced fries are overspiced.

Five Guys, College Point QNS

"If your burger blogging crew ever makes it down to the nation's capital, you've GOTTA try Five Guys."

Over the weeks, months, and, now, years that I've been plugging away at AHT, I've probably gotten more emails like this than for any other burger chain. And in all those months, I've never had the occasion to truck down to D.C. Instead, I've watched as the red states on the Five Guys locator map (right) grew in number and up the East Coast. At one point months and months ago, New York lit up red, but that first Empire State Five Guys was in Schenectady—upstate and still not easily accessible for a nondriving city-dwelling burger dude.

So when news hit that a 5G would open in Brooklyn Heights on Montague Street, I was jazzed. Finally, a Five Guys branch I could try that would involve only a quick subway ride. (Word is that the Montague Street Five Guys will open June 2.)

But did you know there's already a Five Guys in New York City? On Wednesday, I consulted the chain's store locator map for the Montague Street number and saw a Queens location. WTF!?! When did THAT open?

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Link Roundup: NYC Edition

Closer to home—my home, anyway—here's a roundup of burgerness going down around the Big Apple.

Yippee ki-ay! It's another link roundup!I'll have a burger with a side of hyperbole. New York magazine's Underground Gourmet column declares the meatwich at Resto the "Best Burger in New York":

Would it be demeaning to Skeen and Resto to lavish the most praise on the burger? Maybe. But this one is world-class, a loosely packed, modestly sized house-ground masterpiece of beef cheek, hanger steak, and fatback, nicely accessorized with onion, pickle, mayo, and slightly pungent Timberdoodle cheese from Vermont, all on a squishy white bun from Rockland Bakery. It might be the best burger in New York, including Shake Shack’s.

Best burger until next week, burgerfans.

Yippee ki-ay! It's another link roundup!Water Taxi Beach soft-opened for the season last weekend. Once Memorial Day rolls around, WTB will once again be making one of my favorite burgers—the Motz Burger, four ounces of coarsely ground, loose-packed beef, cooked on a severely hot griddle that imparts a deliciously crunchy crust. Though technically the Motz Burger is specced out without cheese (its namesake and creator, George "Hamburger America" Motz prefers it that way), I recommend ordering it topped with a slice of easy-melting American. (Until Memorial Day, WTB will only be serving beer and hot dogs.)

Yippee ki-ay! It's another link roundup!More best burgers. This time in the Borough of Kings. 1 Stop Over in Brooklyn's Jon Cronin rounds up his list of the Best Burgers in Brooklyn. The usual suspects (Schnäck, DuMont, Hope & Anchor), along with some otherwise unchampioned names (Salonike, Pit Stop, Chicory, Ceol, White Castle), and some headscratchers (McDonald's, White Castle).

Yippee ki-ay! It's another link roundup!Friend of AHT "Famous Fat Dave" Freedenberg (aka The Hungry Cabbie) visits Louis' Lunch, the New Haven, Connecticut, joint either famous or infamous (depending on your level of burger purism) for its claim that it invented the burger. Let's just say that if a Louis' Lunch burger was a fare in need of a cab, Dave would cruise by with his for-hire light still on:

They tasted good though. Not great. They certainly would benefit from better bread or a basic bun. The thin slices of bread did have the effect of highlighting the quality of the meat, but a small, soft sesame seed bun would have had the same effect and tasted much better. Still, I’m not going to tell them to stop serving burgers on toast if that’s how they’ve been doing it for a century and a decade. You gotta respect that.

I do not respect, on the other hand, that schmuck behind the counter. Although he was a man a few words (all of which came in a nasty tone of voice) with us, he had plenty to say to his coworkers. While Melissa and I tried to enjoy our burgers on toast, we had to listen to this man spew forth the vilest lies and obscenities about the Yankees I’d ever heard. We were on our way to Boston, and I’d been there many times before, but I’d never heard Bostonians say anything close to what this man was spitting up.

Yippee ki-ay! It's another link roundup!From the Central Park Boathouse, a burger. The New York Post reports: "This year, chef Anthony Walton has added an awesome new fast-food area to the Boathouse, with a new outdoor seating area. 'It’s the sort of thing we want people to use like their corner deli,' says Walton, whose menu includes coffee, croissants and muffins for early morning dog-walkers and bird-watchers, as well as a lunch menu of house-ground burgers ($5), hot dogs ($3.25).... "

Correction: Prime Burger

On April 30, this website published info in its sporadically occurring Openings column regarding Prime Burger. We must apologize to you, dear readers. Placing Prime Burger into the Openings column would somehow indicate that it is a new restaurant when it is not. It's simply a stupid marketing gimmick: sidewalk seating as "new restaurant." From Eater ...

In our universe, a.k.a. reality, this is known as sidewalk seating: a bunch of tables, chairs, and other assorted mood elements set up on the sidewalk, especially during the warmer months. In the alternate reality in which Old Homestead and their PR, The Hall Company, roll, this is grounds to announce a brand new restaurant, "opening May 7th." (By the by, it's fully open now, today, this very moment.)

The editors regret the error.

Burgervision: A Trip to the Butcher

Even though this has been up on Serious Eats for a few weeks now, I haven't shared it here on AHT yet. It's a short video we at Serious Eats commissioned from our friend George "Hamburger America" Motz, and it chronicles a trip to the butcher to get some burger meat. Instead of buying the prepackaged stuff from the grocery, consider going the the extra yard by visiting your own reputable local butcher. You'll be happy you did, especially with grilling season (Memorial Day is the official unofficial kick-off) upon us.

Bouchon Sliders Available This Friday

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Photograph by The Girl Who Ate Everything.

We just got a tip that this Friday, the Bouchon Bakery will be featuring wagyu sliders as a menu addition. They'll be slightly different from the ones that Serious Eats overlord Ed Levine blogged about earlier this month. The tomato marmalade from before will be replaced with oven-roasted roma tomatoes, and the cheese will be taleggio instead of ricotta.

We didn't get any word on what pricing will be, but the first time Ed had them, the meal was $15 for three sliders.

Bouchon Bakery
Address: 3rd floor of the Time-Warner Center Mall
Phone: 212-823-9366

Stand: The Etymology of 'Burger Backslider'

Update: Word is the bun has changed. I'm heading in later today to try it with the new bun. If this is true, Stand could well rank in my top 10 burger list. 1/19/2008

Stand Burger Exterior (by Slice)STAND
Address: 24 East 12th Street, New York NY 10003
Phone: 212-488-5900
URL: standburger.com
The Short Order: It coulda been a contender, but its gnarly baguette-tough bun inspires a new piece of burger phraseology here at AHT: The Backslider
Want Fries with That? Beats me. They look great in Bruni's post on the place, but I had the onion rings, which were rockin'.


Stand, blogged to AHT from the Flickr photostream of Slice

Stand (by Slice)

Stand (by Slice)These photos are from Stand on East 12th Street and University Place near Union Square in New York. I finally went today for the first time.*

To many New Yorkers, and certainly to foodbloggers, this burger is old news. I know it. Mea culpa. Stand opened ages ago. But, somehow, earlier this year, I lost my burger-blogging mojo.

I think I have it back. But not because of this burger.

Sure, it was good. I'll give it that.

Seven ounces of great-tasting, beefy flavored meat. Nice interplay of Dijon, red onion, and sweet homemade ketchup. And the lettuce, tomato, sliced pickle were certainly fresh enough.

Stand Burger Cross Section (by Slice)Moreover, you couldn't ask for a more beautiful-looking meal—the large photos above are two of the best burger photos I've ever taken.

But this burger's bun is UNFORGIVABLE.

The baguette-like conveyance that sandwiches the meat, cheese, and toppings is far too chewy. As with the worst overstuffed deli sandwiches, burger & co. squirt out the back end when you apply the tooth pressure required to bite through this gnarly bun.

From this day forward, and unless and until I can think of something better, all such burgers marked by this nasty trait will be known as "backsliders."

It's a shame, too, because this could be a great burger given a new bun.

* This is a damn shame because, according to Josh "Mr. Cutlets" Ozersky, I missed this burger when it was a 70-30 mixture of beef-to-fat. Dammit!

Guess Mr. Cutlets's Mystery Burger and Win!

UPDATE: SOLVED: Hildebrandt's in Williston Park, New York, out on Long Island.

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Ask and ye shall receive.

Yesterday, I posted a phone message from Grubstreet editor Josh "Mr. Cutlets" Ozersky regarding the mystery burger pictured above. It exists somewhere in the "greater New York area."

Listen to the message:

"I'm not going to tell you." —Mr. Cutlets

AHT reader Jmunchie asked, "How 'bout a photo of this mystery burger?"

Cutlets delivers, and more. He's willing to join me in taking one of you out to grab one of these burgers. Just be the first person to comment here with the correct answer and the burger is on us.

It should be noted that I still don't know where this is. Cutlets was willing to spill, but I thought it would be fun to be kept in the dark until one of you all guessed it. My initial guess was Hinsch's in Bay Ridge, but looking at my own photos of Hinsch's, the counter and glassware don't match.

Guess away, burgerfolk!

UPDATE: SOLVED: Hildebrandt's in Williston Park, New York, out on Long Island.

Mr. Cutlets's Secret Best Burger

UPDATE: SOLVED: Hildebrandt's in Williston Park, New York, out on Long Island.

I received a vaguely menacing voicemail message over the weekend from one Mr. Cutlets, who edits New York magazine's Grub Street under his more prosaic birth name, Josh Ozersky:

I'm here to tell you that I now know where the best hamburger in the greater New York area is. And I'm not going to tell you. It's better than the Shake Shack. It's like the Shake Shack but better. And there's not a hamburger in Manhattan that can compare with it. This will remain a mystery—unless someone can pry it out of me. End of message.

Having steered A Hamburger Today to some phenomenal burgers in the past (Veselka, Chelsea Gallery Restaurant, and the Good Fork, to name a few), I'm sure his claim is not mere hyperbole. I only wish I could finagle the details from him.

Mr. Cutlets: Can you not write about your amazing burger discovery on Grub Street? Is it that you want to keep your discovery to yourself? For the love of burgerdom, please share!

Update: I know your weakness, Cutlets. We'll buy your intel for a White Castle Crave Case—your choice, plain or with cheese.

Update No. 2: Cutlets just gave us a photo. And now there's a contest to win a burger lunch/dinner with Cutlets and me if you can guess the place based on the photo. If you're not on the main page of AHT, click here for the photo/contest.

UPDATE: SOLVED: Hildebrandt's in Williston Park, New York, out on Long Island.

AWAKE SHACK 2007!

THE SHAKE SHACK: IT'S ALIVE! ALIVE!

Awake Shack 2007 (by Slice)

Awake Shack 2007 (by Slice)I don't just talk the talk when I say "Take a chill pill—it's just burgers, people!" Check me out at left here. That's a Chicago Bird Dog. I hit the Shake Shack reopening today and didn't even eat a burger there. I walk the walk, suckas.

Actually, as I've said on AHT before, I gave up red meat for Lent. So damn if I can't have a Shackburger—until Sunday, when, as I understand it, the regular Lenten rules rest for the day. (This masochistic self-deprivation may explain my earlier-than-usual onset of Shacklash this year.)

Anyway, the rest of the Serious Eats crew dug in to the salty-crusted meaty goodness. And speaking of the salty-crusted meaty goodness, if you couldn't taste it, you could certainly smell it a good 20 feet or so from the order windows. It was tempting, indeed.

Awake Shack 2007 (by Slice)The new technology that Eater first reported on, the little vibrating pagers (right), worked like a charm. As I told Gothamist earlier today, "I think the new tech things are great. They'll go a long way to alleviating the pile-up around the pick-up window. And, instead of waiting to hear your name—while secretly worrying that someone will identity-thieve your order—you now have a secure wireless burger-notification system. Bravo!"

Awake Shack 2007 (by Slice)Plus, the magic wands allowed the Serious Eats crew the luxury of staking out a table and relaxing with some chit-chat while we waited. While I posed with the burger-pager (right), Richard Coraine (to my right in the photo), partner and COO of Union Square Hospitality Group (the Shack's parent company), approached Ed and the two started talkin' burgers, fries, and dogs.

Awake Shack 2007 (by Slice)Some nuggets from today's sojourn:


  • Coraine says the folks at USHG tried 32 kinds of frozen french fries before they settled on those now being served

  • The Shack gave out chocolate custard to the hearty folks waiting in line (right)

  • The steamed-and-then-griddled hot dogs (which were definitely better) were inspired by a trip to Birmingham, Alabama, that USHG's Coraine and Meyer took. While there, noted chef Frank Stitt (Highlands Bar and Grill) took them to Pete's Famous Hot Dogs downtown, where Pete's has been making hot dogs that way for since 1915

  • The Shack no longer has kiddie cones, so you can't even pretend to practice portion control any more when you order frozen custard

  • The buzzer system seemed to work

  • The place needs coffee or hot chocolate until the weather warms up (and will need it once it gets cold again in fall)

Awake Shack 2007 (by Slice)The fries were much better than what they were serving last year. Mr. Coraine pointed out that the Shack made the switch ahead of the trans-fat ban in New York City. These are organic, artificial-trans-fat-free fries, and they were noticeably darker, more airy, and more crisp (without being crunchy) than last year's model.

As for the burgers, lemme ask Ed ... "They were good. I wish I had ordered mine medium-rare, but they don't make them medium-rare, anyway. They had the crust, they had the salt. What more do you want? Everything else is punctuation."

Shake Shack Opens at Noon Today

Eater is reporting that the Shake Shack opens at noon today. And that the joint is using super new technology in the dispensation of its wares.

Obligatory Shacklash 2007 comment: I'm so f***ing sick of the Shake Shack. ALREADY. All you people actin' like you've never seen a burger before. Jeez.

Shake Shack: The Madness Begins

Ai yah. It hasn't even opened yet (that'll be March 21), and I'm already getting sick of the frakkin' hype surrounding the Shake Shack. First it was Megnut, and now Eater is blogging training day there.

It's enough that I might even start my yearly moratorium on Shake Shack posts on AHT early.

Well, probably not. But, jeez. It's just burgers, people.

'New York' Magazine's Top New York Burgers

New York magazine just dumped its "Best of New York 2007" issue, and in it the weekly's food critics name their favorite high-, mid-, and low-end burgers in the Big Apple.

Here are their picks, in descending order from high to low. Oh, and Gael Greene just managed to shoot up even more in our estimation with her low-end fave.

Adam Platt
Waverly Inn: 16 Bank Street, New York NY 10014.
BLT Burger: 470 Sixth Avenue, New York NY 10011. Here's A Hamburger Today's take on BLT Burger.
Shake Shack: Southwest corner of Madison Square Park. Here's all AHT's posts on the Shake Shack.

Rob Patronite
Blue Smoke: 16 East 27th Street, New York NY 10016. Psst: Wanna know a super cool secret about Blue Smoke's burger?
Stoned Crow: 85 Washington Place, New York NY 10011.
Shake Shack: Southwest corner of Madison Square Park. Here's all AHT's posts on the Shake Shack.

Robin Raisfeld
Nicole's: 10 East 60th Street, New York NY 10022.
Prune: 54 East 1st Street, New York NY 10003. OMG: Prune's lamburger is insane.
P. J. Clarke's: 915 Third Avenue, New York NY 10022.

Gael Greene
Brooklyn Diner: 212 West 57th Street, New York NY 10019.
Fairway Café: 2127 Broadway, New York NY 10023.
White Castle: Various locations citywide. We love you, Gael Greene—almost as much as we love White Castle.

Best Burgers - Best of New York Food 2007 [New York magazine]

BOO YAH! Five Guys, Fatburger Coming to NYC

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A burger from the Five Guys in Philadelphia. Photograph from "Hamburger" Matty's Flickr photostream

From the New York Post today:

[Five Guys] N.Y.C. prognosis: High-five! The first city location will open in College Point, Queens, next month, with stores to follow in Manhattan within two years.
[Fatburger] N.Y.C. prognosis: Fatties rejoice! The chain plans to open three stores in Manhattan in the next 12 months. One in Greenwich Village, one in Harlem and one in Midtown. Rapper Pharrell Williams (inset) is a partner in the venture.

The big question is whether these companies, as good as they are elsewhere, can maintain their high quality in New York City. With a few exceptions, fast food chains in the Big Apple tend to devolve to dirtiness and surliness pretty quickly.

Chain Reaction [New York Post; via AHT reader Fred S.]

Norah Jones on New York City's Corner Bistro


Norah Jones, blogged to AHT from the Flickr photostream of liltree

Friend of AHT Fred Schwarz emailed us with this heads-up. —The Mgmt.

Here’s the opening paragraph from an interview with Norah Jones in the March issue of Blender (not available online as far as I can tell):

Norah Jones could really go for a hamburger. Nestled in an armchair in a downtown Manhattan recording studio on a wintry afternoon, she has a craving no mere soy substitute can satisfy. "I’ve been on a health kick lately," she says, patting her tummy. "Right now I’m trying to make tofu taste good. But I love me some burgers. I used to live over by this place Corner Bistro, in the West Village? Man, that’s a damn good burger. I’d end up there at four in the morning, really, really drunk. You don’t even remember it till you wake up the next morning—like, why do I smell like onions?”

As a bonus, Mr. Schwarz wrote us a little Norah Jones–burger limerick:

There once was a singer named Norah
Who said, "I could surely go for a
Yummy burger. Bean curd
Tastes completely absurd
And I'm so tired of vegetable pakora.

Thanks, Fred!

CORNER BISTRO
Address: 331 West 4th Street, New York City [map]
Phone: 212-242-9502
Website: cornerbistro.citysearch.com

At the Google Cafeteria: Bacon Krispy Kreme Burger


Bacon Krispy Kreme burger, blogged to AHT from the Flickr photostream of satanslaundromat

Photoblogger Satan's Laundromat had lunch in the New York Google cafeteria last week and posts this picture of a bacon burger with Krispy Kreme bun to Flickr. He notes that he did not eat it and merely took a picture of it.

[via FoAHT Janelle]

'Village Voice' Burger Roundup

BLT Burger, Beauty ShotRobert Sietsema in last week's Village Voice does a survey of the increasing number of increasingly upscale burger joints in New York City.

Brgr: " ... the griddle cooks commit the unpardonable sin of smashing the patty down with the spatula as it sizzles, evacuating all the tasty juices, resulting in a dry crumbly 'brgr.'..." (287 Seventh Avenue, New York NY 10001; 212-488-7500)

BLT Burger (pictured): " ... even the lush toppings can't disguise the meat's fundamental flavorlessness...." (470 Sixth Avenue, New York NY 10011; 212-243-8226)

67 Burger: "There is something refreshingly unpretentious about 67 Burger...." (67 Lafayette Avenue, Brooklyn NY 11217; 718-797-7150)

Brooklyn Burger Bar: " ... burgers arrive overcooked, and the so-called Brooklyn burger—topped with sun-dried tomatoes and mozzarella—represents the borough about as well as Marty Markowitz." [Ouch! But that's what you get for supporting the Ratner project, Marty. —The Mgmt.] (444 9th Street, Brooklyn NY 11215; 718-832-5500)

Stand: " ... 90 percent ground chuck and an assortment of other cuts, and the specimens we examined were all cooked to the desired level of doneness.... " (24 East 12th Street, New York NY 10003; 212-488-5900)

Beefin' Burgers [Village Voice]

Grilled: Honey P.

Ladies and gentlemen, allow us to be a little self-indulgent. This week's Grilled features Honey P., one of A Hamburger Today's founding editors. While we're a little averse to the sound of our own keyboards tapping, we thought you might want to know more about the folks who had a hand in making this site what it is. And so, without further ado, let's get Grillin'! —The Mgmt.

Name: Honey P.
Location: New York City
Occupation: Journalist

How often do you eat burgers?
Used to be about two times a week but too much Oprah and Dr. Mehmet Oz has me paranoid about heart disease so I’m averaging about one patty every one to two weeks. Regardless, I usually can’t resist.

Where did you eat your most recent one?
At an old school drive-in called the Charcoaler in El Paso, Texas. I had the area’s classic green chile burger. It was fantastic, no grease, fresh ingredients, perfectly palm size, and it tasted like you grilled it yourself in the backyard.

American, cheddar, other?
Cheddar, blue, gruyère or jalapeño Jack. I reserve American for summertime grill-outs and the Fourth, when you can’t seem to escape it. But it really does melt so well onto the burger. I just can’t renounce my expensive tastes. Well, not yet.

Ketchup or mustard?
Depends what else is on the burger for me. For example, ketchup and cheddar make a perfect pair, but if the burger has bacon and blue cheese, then I like a Dijon mustard. With American, Heinz and French’s is a classic combo. And for a really wild time, a mayo-ketchup mix is usually super tasty.

Sesame-seed or plain?
I don’t really care. The makeup of the bun is more important—soft, so it soaks up the juices but hearty enough that it holds the thing together and doesn’t fall apart. I like the taste sesame adds but it’s not deciding factor.

Grilled, griddled, or broiled?
Grilled. ‘Cause an open flame does a burger right. Despite some of the haters around here, I love the Corner Bistro burger, and I know that’s broiled, so perhaps broiled is my second choice.

And how would you like that done, miss?
Medium is my rule of thumb, but if your meat can hold its own, then medium-rare.

Continue reading »

Stand

Hamburger Matty: Went to Stand last night.
NYCSlice: cool
NYCSlice: how was it?
Hamburger Matty: meh
NYCSlice: like what everyone is saying about Brgr
Hamburger Matty: yeah.
Hamburger Matty: i took photos, so i'll put a post together.
Hamburger Matty: maybe not a full review.
Hamburger Matty: people are afraid to use salt.
Hamburger Matty: the burger was just bland.
NYCSlice: i agree
NYCSlice: I think they think, "Just leave the meat alone"
NYCSlice: but all the best places seem to salt
Hamburger Matty: yeah, you can't do that.
Hamburger Matty: even if it IS a mix of chuck, short rib and brisket
Hamburger Matty: oh, and the menu at Stand
NYCSlice: yeah?
Hamburger Matty: Every main item has a burger in it, except for one salad (there are two salads total).
NYCSlice: sounds like my kinda place
Hamburger Matty: but
Hamburger Matty: they had a mini-burger listed as a side.
Hamburger Matty: who would be like, "One burger's not enough and two burgers is too much, so i'll get a big and a mini"?
NYCSlice: heh

Grilled: Peter Meehan

After a brief hiatus, ladies and gentlemen, Grilled is back. This week's installment is Peter Meehan, who has discovered and relayed the news of some of New York's finest burgers in the pages of the New York Times. Because he wishes to retain his anonymity for the purposes of his reviews, we do not have a photograph—apologies to those of you who enjoy rating the relative hotness of each new Grilled subject as compared with my sister. Without further ado, let's get Grillin'! —The Mgmt.

Name: Peter Meehan
Occupation: "$25 and Under" columnist for the New York Times
Location: New York City

How often do you eat burgers?
Once or twice a week at most. Back before I was reviewing restaurants, I probably ate three or four burgers a week.

Where did you eat your most recent one?
BLT Burger. I’ve taken a short burger break after bingeing at BLT.

Cheese: American, cheddar, other?
American, I guess. Seems like the patriotic answer. But I am open to almost any melty cheese on a burger. I have more specific feelings about what cheese choices I object to: I love blue cheese and mozzarella, but I don’t think either belongs on a hamburger; and I don’t like burgers blanketed in any outré or overly pedigreed cheese.

Ketchup or mustard?
Mustard on the burger, ketchup on the side. I think a truly great burger needs no ketchup. (But I have a very strong affinity for ketchup, so there’s a good chance I’m still going to eat at least part of that truly great burger with it.)

Sesame-seed or plain?
That’s tough. Sesame-seed buns do seem like the platonic ideal of hamburger bun-ness. But there are many seedless buns on burgers I like. Seedless potato rolls are perfect for the Shake Shack burger. The choice of ciabatta for the smaller burger at DuMont burger is inspired. The English muffin as a burger bracket has always struck me as a pointless East Coast affectation, but it serves Gabrielle Hamilton’s lamburger [at Prune] well. Before eating at Royale, I would have said “absolutely no brioche” because every hamburger I’d eaten on a brioche bun up to that point was way too rich. Not theirs. Plus it had sesame seeds. So I’m waffling, but ultimately going sesame. Final answer.

Grilled, griddled, or broiled?
All of the above. Didn’t George Motz teach us that burgers can be steamed and deep-fried, too? Is there even a verb for what they do to the burgers at Louis’ Lunch in New Haven? I find grilling and broiling to be the surest approaches to properly cooked patties, but I have no allegiance to any one style.

And how would you like that done, sir?
Medium-rare. Bonus points if the thing gets a chance to rest for a few minutes before it’s served, though I can’t think of a single restaurant where that happens.

Continue reading »

Dear AHT: My Manhattan Burger Week

Dear AHT,
I try to eat at least one burger a week. This past week, however, the burger got the best of me. I have long been a proponent of the P.J. Clarke's burger as the indisputable best burger in Manhattan. Well a few friends decided to challenge me on this, so we went to each person's top pick, ordering medium-rare bacon cheeseburgers at each, to see if we could reach a consensus.

BLUE SMOKE | 116 East 27th Street, New York NY 10016 [map]
Actually no one thought Blue Smoke was the best burger, but we saw your review and another writeup (New York magazine, I think) and decided it was worthy of inclusion. This was the most disappointing burger by far. Meduim-rare came out medium. Not very juicy. Still, good flavor.

J. G. MELON | 1291 Third Avenue, New York NY 10021 [map]
One of us was confident this was the best. Medium-rare was almost really medium-rare, but still not quite there.

CORNER BISTRO | 331 West 4th Street, New York NY 10014 [map]
This medium-rare was as close as the Melon burger, but with far more flavor. Combine this with the almost fairyland-like prices, and you have your hands-down No. 2.

P. J. CLARKE'S | 915 Third Avenue, New York NY 10022 [map]
I was able to convert the Melon guy with this burger. It is simply perfect. I would estimate that I have experienced it about 10 to 15 times, and each and every time, it is a perfect medium-rare. Eating this burger is like eating a steak. Sorry for my lack of descriptive details, but you need to eat this today.

—Greg K.

Got something to say about your favorite burgers? Email beef@ahamburgertoday.com

New Burger Joint in Park Slope, Brooklyn

AHT reader Franz H. writes:

So, I live in Park Slope and was walking past what used to be Bar Minnow on Seventh Ave and 9th Street, and I noticed there was a new awning going up. It's bright yellow and it said Brooklyn Burger Bar, any info on that at all?

Also, it's interesting to me that no one in NYC really talks about Buffalo wings. I believe wings are right up there with burgers and pizza as great comfort food. Do you have any favorites around the city? They best I've found so far are at Acme and Scruffy Duffy's.

Thanks for your time,
Franz H.
P.S. Is it true you are a fellow Syracuse alum?

Franz,
This is the first I've heard of the surf of Bar Minnow growing legs and moving to the turf of Brooklyn Burger Bar, so no great info from me, but thanks for the tip. I'm in the neighborhood, so I'll check it out when it opens.

As far as wings, I'm not a huge connoisseur, so I haven't had all that many around the city. My wing-nut friends in the Slope like Bonnie's, though, but I'm sure you've already tried and dismissed, as you don't mention them here.

Syracuse: Nope. That's Seltzerboy from sister site Slice. He's an Orangeman. I'm a Jay-Jay-Jay-Jay Jayhawk, up at Lawrence on the Kaw.

Sinsearly,
Adam

Stand: Not Opening Today

New Manhattan burger joint Stand was supposed to be open today. A tipster sent us this via email: "I went inside and spoke with someone, clearly they're not opening for lunch today. He said hopefully Sunday or Monday—for dinner. It will be dinner only all next week, he said, so they can work out the kinks before they open for lunch."

Brgr: Frst Rmblngs

Some initial reports from recently opened Brgr ...

New York magazine: No real critique, just background: "One-third pound natural Angus, sourced from boutique beefery Montana Legend, seasoned with house-blend spice mix and griddled or charbroiled to temperature." [link]

The Homesick Texan: "I stopped by Brgr on Seventh Avenue this evening. I ordered a medium-rare cheeseburger, and it came out way overdone. Small 100% Angus beef patty was overwhelmed by veggies. A snack, not a meal. Expensive." [link]

Eat for Victory: "It reminded me of a guy who looks hot from down the block, but not so good up close. The place is slick and overtly trendy, and the menu is appealing, but the details are all messed up." [link]

Any other reports, folks?


BRGR
Address: 287 Seventh Ave. (26th Street), New York NY 10001 [map]
Phone: 212-488-7500

Photograph from Homesick Texan, via Flickr

Shake Shack T-Shirt Contest: We Have a Winnah!

It's official: AHT reader Jason T. is the winner of our "Win a Danny Meyer–Autographed Shake Shack T-Shirt" contest. His time-stamped receipt showing 6:16 p.m. takes the cake (or should we say "shake"?).

We'll get Mr. Meyer's John Hancock on that, Jason, and send it to you along with a copy of Setting the Table and issue No. 5 of comic book The Boys, which features the Shack in one of its scenes.

Congrats!

Shake Shack T-Shirt Contest: Preliminary Winner

Remember last Friday's "Win a Danny Meyer–Autographed Shake Shack T-Shirt" contest? Looks like we have a preliminary winner! AHT reader Jason T. has the latest time-date stamp on his burger receipt so far: 6:16 p.m.

Anyone else out there have a later time-stamped receipt? If so, you'll be the lucky winner of a Danny Meyer autographed Shack T-shirt and a copy of Mr. Meyer's recent book (non-autographed), Setting the Table — plus(!) a copy of issue No. 5 of gritty CIA-superhero comic The Boys, which features a scene that takes place at the Shack (left).

Any challengers to Jason T.'s 6:16 p.m. claim have until 6 p.m. today to send a photo of their receipts to adam@ahamburgertoday.com.

Openings: 67 Burger

2006112767Burger.jpgFrom Friend of AHT Balgavy:

Hope you had a good Thanksgiving. I played a bunch of new games I got, and I think this year's board game party should be a blast. Werewolf is a popular party game that turned out to be a lot more fun than I expected.

Anyway, just sending you a note to tell you a new place in Fort Greene, 67 Burger, is now open till 10 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. No
mini burgers, but they do have a kids hamburger which includes fries. The burger I picked up last night was really good. The spicy curly fries were just like Arby's but much too expensive (almost $4).

Thanks for the tip, Mr. Balgavy! You're the second person AHT has heard about 67 Burger from. Does anyone else have anything to report? If the burgers there are as cool as the burger diagram (left) from the joint's website ...

Blue Smoke on the Cheap

Blue Smoke BurgerBLUE SMOKE
Address: 116 East 27th Street, New York NY 10016 [map]
Phone: 212-447-7733
Getting There: 6 Train to 28th Street
Short Order: As the Shake Shack's sister burger, Blue Smoke's sandwich has the same coarsely ground, beefy, salty meat mixture. And it turns out, there's quite a bit of flexibility in how you can order it.
Want Fries With That? No. Sub in the hush puppies at no extra cost.


Blue Smoke Split Burger, blogged to AHT from the Flickr photostream of Slice

Pssst: Want a great lunch for two for around $14 total (before tip) at Blue Smoke? Ask them to split their usual nine-ounce burger into two burgers.

Blue Smoke general manager Mark Maynard-Parisi said the restaurant is happy to make two 4.5-ounce burgers for the same price as the single nine-ounce sandwich on its menu ($11.50, comes with fries; cheese and bacon each $1 extra).

Blue Smoke Split BurgerThis is good news for people who aren't that into big-ass honkin' burgers. Especially at Blue Smoke, where the otherwise big-ass honkin' burger is especially tasty. Downsizing to two half-size burgers does the trick nicely: You still get a decent amount of meat, and because it's served on an airy brioche bun, the bread component is not as overwhelming as you'd fear -- it can be squished down nicely.

Two of us at AHT went there for lunch recently and got out with a total food bill of $13.50. Not bad for a classy Danny Meyer joint, eh?

Mr. Maynard-Parisi suggests supplementing the burgers with an appetizer or two (the sausage plate caught our eye), but ours was a filling meal without.

We probably shouldn't even be sharing this with you. Who knows how long they'll keep this up once word gets out. :(

He Hates NY (Burger Co.)


New York Burger Co., blogged to AHT from the Flickr photostream of The Amateur Gourmet

Grub Street editor Josh "Mr. Cutlets" Ozersky rips New York Burger Co. a new one in a post today:

New York Burger Co. makes some of the worst hamburgers in New York. The ultralean all-natural Coleman beef would barely retain a drop of moisture in a sous-vide; after getting desiccated by the charcoal grill, the burgers tend to be little tastier than tofu patties.

Agreed.

New York Burger Co.'s Dirty Secret [Grub Street]

Openings: BLT Burger

BLT Burger, Exterior ShotBLT BURGER
Address: 470 Sixth Ave., New York NY 10001 [map]
Getting There: F/V trains to 14th Street
Cost: $7 for burger with lettuce, onion, tomato, pickles; cheese, ¢50 extra; cash and credit accepted
Short Order: A respectable fast-food style burger; beefy flavor, pleasantly salty taste
You Want Fries With That? Beats me. They offer hand-cut fries made from Idaho potatoes, but I opted for the Vidalia onion rings, which could use some work—a little too much batter



Eater put it on its BurgerWatch. Friends IMed me about it. But when an AHT reader wrote, asking if we had any reports on BLT Burger, I was duty bound to act. I hightailed it down to Sixth Avenue and 12th Street for some quick B-search™

Continue reading »

Prune

PruneAddress: 54 East First Street, New York NY 10003 [map]
Phone: 212-677-6221
Website: prunerestaurant.com
Cost: $12
Short Order: 80/20 mixture of ground chuck and lamb gives this burger a tangy, flavor that hints at aged beef
Want Fries With That? Oddly enough? Yes. I generally don't like fries, but the spuds here, done in the style of Chez Ronald, are quite good

Prune, Burger and Fries

Prune, one of Manhattan's favorite weekend brunch spots, recently started serving lunch during the week. On that menu: a cheddar burger. At the urging of a highly credible source, we checked it out yesterday.

Continue reading »

Rachael Ray Opening a Burger Joint?

Rachael Ray's got TV shows, a magazine, and who knows what else. Oh ... how 'bout a burger joint? Media blogger Dylan Stableford has the deets:

Ray told an audience at the American Magazine Conference in Phoenix on Sunday she will open the yet-untitled "burger joint" in New York, based on 190 burger recipes she has cooked up. "We'll rotate them," she said. "Tuna burgers, swordfish burgers, turkey burgers," Ray said, "I like anything you can pick up with your hands — portable food." Ray said she also plans to open fast-food versions of the flagship.

Would you like EVOO with your burger?

Rachael Ray to Open Burger Joint [FishbowlNY, via TAB]

Manhattan: Lure Fishbar's Lure Burger

Lure Fishbar's Lure BurgerLURE FISHBAR
Address: 142 Mercer Street (at Prince Street); SoHo, New York City [map]
Getting There: R/W trains to Prince Street Station; one block west of B'way
Phone: 212-431-7676
Short Order: A great In-N-Out–inspired burger from an unexpected place. Make sure to order the "Lure Burger"—not the regular cheeseburger
Want Fries With That? If they didn't come with the burger already, I'd recommend passing on them. OK but not great.
Cost: $14; cash and cards are accepted payment

Lure Fishbar's Lure Burger: Cross Section
A Catch: It's counterintuitive to order a burger at a seafood restaurant, but this one rewards stubborn landlubbers with a boatload of briny deliciousness.

We were skeptical when Eater columnist William Tigertt first trumpeted Lure Fishbar's burger as "the best burger downtown":

For my money, the best burger south of 14th Street is the Lure Burger at Lure Fishbar in SoHo. Basically, the Lure Burger is a well-executed restaurant interpretation of an In-N-Out burger. It’s pre-assembled with ketchup, mustard, pickles, shredded lettuce, and special sauce. The lettuce, tomatoes, and pickles are thinly sliced. It’s on a brioche, cut in half, and topped off with two thick cut onion rings hanging from bamboo toothpicks. It comes with classic thin-cut French fries with a trio of catsup, mustard, and mayo dipping sauces. It’s well-seasoned, fresh ground chuck, and unbelievably good. Myself and entire crew of guys from the restaurant walk across town and have it at least once a week.

First: A great burger from a seafood restaurant? Enough said.

Second: In-N-Out? I mean, come on. You can stop making comparisons to the vaunted Cali fast-food burger joint once the word brioche enters the picture and the price goes north of five bucks.

But ... but ...

Continue reading »